It's time we had a tough conversation. We may have breached this before, but it is a sensitive subject, that must be approached delicately...
Traditional Cork Vs. Screw Cap - Initial thoughts:
- Screw caps prevent the wine faults of oxidation and of cork taint, and are easier to open. They do have an generalized reputation in the USA associated with cheap (and even questionable?!!) wines. BUT, there are some pretty awesome benefits screw caps, that have led many producers to go that direction.
- Cork is traditional, viewed by customers as higher-end, and has a proven track record. I personally think there is something romantic about the experience of opening wine.
Hence ensues the never-ending debate between romantic elegance (cork) and lower failure rate/better product integrity (screw cap)...
The general consensus from the trade is that between 5-15% of wine is adversely affected by 2,4,6 trichloroanisole (TCA), causing cork taint or the bottle to be "corked". Corked wine may have an unpleasant odor of: moldy newspaper, wet dog, damp basement. It is harmless, just smells icky. TCA can result from chlorine used to wash the cork bark. In some cases, it can come from trees used to make corks, that have been treated with pesticides containing chlorine. YIKES!
Screw caps protect the wine from cork taint, prevent sporadic oxidation, help to prevent flavor modification, like scalping (flavor absorption) which impacts delicate, aromatic wines such as Rieslings and Sauvignon Blancs.
Did you know that the latest measures show that somewhere around 75% of New Zealand wines are screw cap? Red or white, it doesn't matter. Considering they are a HUGE supplier of Sauv Blancs, we can see why. ALL of the wines I brought back from New Zealand AND Australia were screw caps. Even the big-bodied AU Shiraz!
Wine producers and packagers began experimenting with screw caps many years ago, and there is historic evidence that both red and white wine can age under a screw cap, yet remain untainted. I was surprised to learn this during my travels in AU/NZ. I had been comfortable with white wines under screw cap, but reds?!!! How could they possibly age properly?!!! It was at a vineyard in NZ where a wine maker helped to open my mind to reds under cap.
Here are some quotes I like:
(1) “Reactions that take place in bottled wine do not require oxygen.” ~ Jean Ribereau-Gayon.
(2) “… it is the opposite of oxidation, a process of reduction or asphyxia, by which wine develops in the bottle.” ~ Emile Peynaud
Screw caps also minimize bottle variation across a batch of wine. Generally speaking, they have removed complications around cellaring and storing wines, as one no longer has to worry about humidity or bottle orientation. They are more resistant to temperature change than traditional corks, and make it easier to cellar wine, as the bottles need not be stored on their sides, as cork-closed wines must. (Traditionally, bottles were stored horizontally to keep the wine in contact with the cork, creating a seal that keeps too much oxygen from getting in.) You can store screw-capped wine in whatever direction you please. Finally, screw caps can be recycled. Aluminium is one of the most cost effective base materials. Recycling it saves up to 95% of the energy needed to produce new aluminium. So put your screw caps in the recycling bin after the wine's gone!
My Take On It:
Natural cork, synthetic cork, screw cap, glass...
Obviously, years of research show that screw caps are a reliable long-term seal. The question becomes, "Can you get over the fact that you are opening wine with a twist of cap, versus using that gorgeous cork screw you bought in France (for example); or popping out that timeless, wine-stained piece of wood, with a bit of lovely character all its own?" I don't think I can get over it completely.
Maybe I'm a bit dramatic, but I am educated and on-the-fence on this one! That is my hope for you...a bit of knowledge and opened-mindedness. After all, why shouldn't each wine maker decide for themselves? Then we, the consumer, can respect and appreciate each bottle as the art it was created to be! OK, that's a perfect world where all wine producers think of their product as art, but you get my drift. (Furthermore, hopefully we are ALL buying more of our wine from wine-makers who value their product, and who maybe even consider it art!!!)
As with everything, my view is to embrace the diversity of the winemaking regions and vitners, and celebrate their freedom to choose the method they prefer for protecting their product. Variety is the spice of life! Who knows, you might even get a few clues into where your wine was made, and the a hint about the ideology of the producer. What's your view?
Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc (pictured here: Fresh lemon-y citrus, tropical fruits, crisp and dry), from New Zealand...one of the minority wineries in that country using traditional cork closure.
